Installing a car stereo can be a simple thing. Basically, all one really needs is a wire harness, dash installation kit, and some simple tools. There are so many quick help guides and aftermarket parts a first time beginner can install a stereo easily like a pro.
HOW TO INSTALL
A CAR STEREO
|
Perhaps
the most time-consuming and most important element of a car audio
installation is the wiring. There are power cables, ground cables, signal
(RCA) cables, speaker wire and more. Then there is the connection of wires
to ignition sources, constant 12-volt sources, etc. The process may sound
overwhelming. However, if you attack it in small bites, you will find that
it is not as difficult as you expect.
|
Preparing
for the Installation |
|
Steps: |
1. |
Gather
the following tools: knife
or wire cutters, solder and solder gun, crimps, stripper, screwdriver,
screws. |
2. |
Plan
the installation. Know where you intend to put all the components. For
example, the radio is commonly put in the factory opening in the dash, the
speakers are put in the factory openings in the front doors, and the rear
speakers are put in the factory openings on the rear deck. The equalizer
goes in the factory opening below the radio in the dash. An amplifier with
built-in electronic crossover usually goes in the trunk. The car's
battery, which powers the system, is commonly under the hood, usually on
the passenger's side of the car. |
Routing
Power, Ground and Signal Wires |
|
Steps: |
1. |
Route
the power cable from the battery through the passenger side of the car to
the amplifier in the trunk. This will prove easiest because the battery is
commonly on the passenger's side of the car. You will have to feed the
power cable through a rubber grommet on the firewall.
(Battery Terminals help with securing a professional connection) |
2. |
Route
the signal cables (RCA
cables) on the driver's side of the car from the head unit to the
amplifier. |
3. |
Ground
the amplifier to a clean metal surface on the car's chassis. The ground
should be no more than 18 inches from the amplifier. The
ground cable must be the same gauge size as the power cable being used. |
|
Tips: |
|
You
don't want to route signal wire next to power wire because that could
result in noise entering the sound system. If power cable and signal cable
must cross, cross them perpendicularly. If you experience noise you can
always get a noise
filter |
|
The
gauge of the power cable is determined by the specifications of the
amplifier you are using. The owner's manual that comes with the amplifier
will probably tell you what gauge cable to use. If it does not, consult
with a tech advisor from the manufacturer of the amplifier to find out. |
|
Use
well-shielded RCA cable. This will help prevent noise from entering the
sound system. |
Wiring
the Radio and Connecting Components |
|
Steps: |
1. |
Connect
the radio to a constant 12-volt source, an ignition lead, the amplifier
turn-on and the antenna. On newer cars, the constant 12-volt and the
ignition wire connections can be made through the factory wire harness. On
older cars, the fuse block can serve as the constant 12-volt source. |
2. |
Ground
the radio to the chassis. |
3. |
Connect
the antenna to the proper antenna input on the radio. |
4. |
Connect
the radio to the amplifier so when you turn on the radio, you are also
turning on the amplifier. Most radios have a power antenna output. This is
a 12-volt line that runs the power antenna. When the radio is turned on,
the power antenna goes up; when the radio is turned off, the power antenna
goes down. Use the power antenna lead to also turn on the amplifier. Use a
relay to make the connection, so that the line can run both the power
antenna and the amplifier turn-on. Ask a neighborhood car audio retail
dealer how to connect the relay. Some radios have a separate power antenna
output and a separate amplifier output. If this is the case with your
radio, use the amplifier output to turn on the amplifier. Or known as Remote
wire |
5. |
Begin
connecting components using 18-gauge or 16-gauge wire on the speakers. The
wires run from each speaker to the amplifier. The longer the run, the more
resistance on the wire. The larger the gauge size of the wire, the less
resistance. Recommend 10-12Ga
speaker wire. |
6. |
Run
the speaker wire on the same side of the car as the signal wire. - Which
consists of RCA, Remote and Power Wire. |
7. |
Some
installers then Connect the speakers in either a parallel or series
configuration. A parallel connection is when you connect each speaker's
positives together and each speaker's negatives together. A series hook-up
is when you connect one speaker's negative to the second speaker's
positive. - DANGER..... this is only needed and used when adding
SUBWOOFERS w/ CAR AMPLIFIERS> CAR HEAD UNITS can only be wired
individually positive / negative configuration parallel speaker
configuration.. Front LF/RF Rear RR/LR. DO not EVER add more
speakers to a HEADUNITs speaker output.... for more info on this please
look at hooking up Subwoofers Properly!!!
|
8. |
After
connecting the speakers together, run the wires to the amplifier and
connect the positive wires to the positive inputs of the amplifier and the
negative wires to the negative inputs of the amplifier. |
|
Tips: |
|
When
wiring speakers together and to the amplifier, you need to consider the
impedance, or ohms, rating of the speakers as well as the ohms load of the
amplifier. Amplifiers are constructed to "see" a certain ohms
load. If the load the amplifier sees falls below what it is capable of
handling, the amplifier will shut off. Speakers come with various ohms
ratings. When speakers are connected together, the ohms rating, or
impedance, of the group of speakers that are wired together changes and
affects the ohms load of the amplifier. If you wire two 4-ohm speakers
together in a series hook-up, you are producing an ohms load of 8 ohms. If
you wire two 8-ohm speakers in parallel, you are creating an ohms load of
4 ohms (8 ohms x 8 ohms divided by 8 ohms + 8 ohms = a 4 ohms load on the
amplifier). If you connect two 8-ohm subwoofers in a parallel hook-up to
an amplifier that is bridged mono, the amplifier will see half of the load
because it is bridged. So it will be seeing a 2 ohms load. |
|
Before
you do a parallel hook-up on an amplifier, make sure that the amp can take
the ohms load that will result. Find out what ohms load the amplifier is
stable at and then choose speakers with the appropriate ohms rating, so
that the hook-up will ensure that the ohms load is within the capability
of the amplifier. Many amps can only handle Bridge Mode in STEREO ONLY.
MONO Block amps can handle Most what ya throw at em. |
|
Generally
speaking, most midrange, midbass and tweeters you use will be 4-ohm rated.
Most subwoofers you use will be 4- or 8-ohm rated. Generally car audio
speakers are all rated at 4ohm. So keep in mind, a 4 ohm speaker is twice
as efficient as an 8ohm, less power needed to produce big sound. |
|
If
you are using passive crossovers with the component speakers in the front
and rear of the car, hooking up these crossovers can also affect the ohms
load seen by the amplifier. Hooking up the passive crossovers' positive
and negative properly can be a concern. Follow the speaker manufacturer's
instructions carefully. |
|
If
you are preparing to hook up wires to the amplifier and you are not sure
which is negative and which is positive, take a 9-volt battery and tap the
speaker wire to the positive terminal of the battery. If the speaker first
moves forward (or out), then you have touched the positive lead of the
speaker to the positive terminal of the battery, and the remaining wire is
negative. If the speaker's first move is backward (or in), you have
touched the negative wire of the speaker to the positive terminal of the
battery. |
|
Overall
Warnings: |
|
If
you are not comfortable with electrical wiring, do not attempt this
installation. Have your stereo installed by your car audio retailer. |
|
Tips
from ProShop installers & Users: |
|
Do
it once, do it right!
When installing your car stereo, if you really don't want to have it done
professionally, don't take short-cuts! I'm a professional and have seen
many people run power leads through their door until they short out
against the hinge. |
|
Matching
amp and sub by Derek dek
If you choose an amp with an average RMS rating above the rating of the
sub, you can lower the gain and get better quality sound. Over-powering
the sub can occur, but only if you are neglectful and turn the gain up too
high. It is much better to run your amp on half gain than full gain. It
will increase the life of the MOSFETs and produce better quality sound
(won't run into distorted saturation). |